TribalOverkill's LiquiD EvolutioN

[tribaloverkill]

Hey! Sorry im late! I had trouble processing the video. The damn thing wouldnt compile. It turns out,... I was having heat issues. LOL. Yes,... my computer was running to hot. So I placed a fan right up against the side of the computer with the side panel off an whalaaa! A video is born! It's still not ready yet. REVVER is still processing it So next update I'll post it. I'll be taking more video too becaue my foot switches are here! Sweet.

Aug-07-2008(bAR2745r)

So I ordered some acrylic tubes from tappplastics.com. I ordered 18' which came in sections of 3', 6 sections total. Of the 6 sections, 2 of them were severly cracked. This always happens! I told TAPP to wrap em good because this always happens. They did just that. Packing paper, bubble paper, and even fragile stickers all over the outside of the box. STILL! Cracked tubes. I dont think it's TAPP at all. I think its the shipper. Anyways,... TAPP is sending me replacements.


Here im cutting the 8.5" bodies. That means the reservoirs will be 9" in length total. As you can see there is paper inside the tubes. This a combination of the paper the tubes came in and some addition recycled paper mask. The reason for the paper is to keep the hot shavings from sticking to the inside of the tubes. It works great!


My chip saw with the wrong blade. I have yet to get a reall acrylic cutting blade.


This is a back stop. This is so I dont have to measure each tube.


All cut.


This is a deburring tool.


It's used to deburr. It works good. But there has to be a better way and quicker way of doing this. Going to look into rotary files.


As you can see it cutt a pretty nice bevel or chamfer.


These tubes are ready for drilling.


For S@#$% and giggles I tried flame polishing a sample tube,... didnt work so well. I would stay away from flame polishing EXTRUDED acrylic tubing. It bubbles so easily! I was really careful with the piece of tube in the pic and yet thre are bubbles. I couldnt believe how esaily it bubbled.


So you know me,... I had to play around with it. Look at this S@#$!! I mean,... it wasnt like I took my time heating this piece to get it to bubble. Seriously,... seconds! Only a second to get it to bubble. Ugly.


Ok,... this is my weekend off. so expect several updates! Im going to get a lot done! I want to finish these reservoirs this weekend!

[Azariel]

Maybe the bubling is also the reason that your getting the cracked tubes in the mail each time, maybe they are using low grade acrylics? Now I have no experience with flame polishing, but it is a possibility

[tribaloverkill]

Oorspronkelijk geplaatst door Azariel

Maybe the bubling is also the reason that your getting the cracked tubes in the mail each time, maybe they are using low grade acrylics? Now I have no experience with flame polishing, but it is a possibility

I took that into consideration. Maybe I should look into that a bit more. I used extruded acrylic for all the defective xPO's. But I also use it for the sPL's and I did here anything about those. hmmm. Cast is so expensive though.

[tribaloverkill]

Quick update. I haev to run. My friend is having a bday pary today. I'm late!!! She's gonna kill me! Anyways,... check it out. Oh,... I kind of slept most the night. I was tired

Aug-09-2008

Making my tube drilling jig.


All the pieces are crazy glued but I decide to reinforce with flush screws.


My foot switches. I also got some replacement cord too.


The one end is bare as you can see.


I got replacement cord so I can unplug the switches if needed. Cool


Screwed down the angle thingies that holds the tube in place.


Installing the railing. The railing is thicker than I wanted it to be but there nothing I can do now. I'm just gonna go with it.


the aluminum will be flush bolted to the railing. I will put paper or cardboard under the aluminum to act as spacers. I just hope that the railing isnt to high already. If it is I will have to use 1/16" aluminum instead of the 1/8" in using now.


Here's teh video I made. I hope you like! Bye!

[Donnie1992]

just a quick offtopic question..
With what did u edit the video ?
and what's the music used in it ??
It has some good bass!
Btw keep on moddig it's looking good

[modernization]

Hell yeah, that really a freaking nice torch. En the result is just cooler than I ever had imagine.
And that welt, was hilarious that thing must be soooo hot man. I hope you got lots of fun with that thing! Keep on!

ps. what the hell is that noizy thing on the background? some huge fan?

[Azariel]

Damn man, thats one hot flame you got there. I think I only saw someone flamepolishing once before, I think it was bill from the modnation, he was using a butane torch (or atleast so he says in the vid). But the result looks absolutely fabulous.

But regarding the pen-torch, wont that work aswell? or will that just burn it for a bit and just wont make it hot enough?

[tribaloverkill]

@ Donnie1992 - Im using windows movie maker. LOL. I dont have any special software at the moment The music I use in my videos is made by a guy that goes by the name of PIP. He's dutch He's Thadeez's brother.

@ modernization - Itis a big fan. The studio it made up of two rooms. the one room has air conditioning and the other does not. The one that deos not is the room I work in. With all the machine running,... its gets hot as hell in there. The mapp torch works great. But you have to be careful because it is hot. You have to find the right flame. Not to hot but it has to be hot enough. You have to play around with it to figure that out.

@ Azariel - A lot fo guys use butane torches because the flame is small and its it has enough heat to do a really good job. It's up to you as to what you want to use. I never tried a butane torch. You can use a pencil torch. It does owrk fine. But the flame is big and the flame temp isnt all that great. so it will take you longer to polish with it. You have have to polish some and then let it completely cool. Once it's cooled you can start polishing it some more. If you try and do it all in one session,... the acylic will severaly heat up. It will lose it shape, catch fire constantly. I just got my small Gentec torch. What a difference! a VERY tiny flame. And its hot as hell! I can polish all in one shot without the acrylic heating up. The hotter the flame, the easier it is to melt the VERY surface that you are trying to polish out. Because the flame is hotter the acrylic melts quicker. Which means less time the flame is in contact with the acrylic. understand? Time for an update!

[tribaloverkill]

An update. I got so many things going on, things that I have to do I feel like im going to go crazy!!!

Aug-12-2008 (bAR2745r)

I got my one digital caliper in the mail. This is the better one. The other one hasnt come yet! OMG I order that how long ago! Harborfreight.com sucks @#$! Anyways,... this thing is nice! I was measuring the thickness of hair! I noticed that one end of a hair is thicker than the other Cool!


And of course,.... it never fails. Something always ends up broken in the mail. They seriously need to rethink their efforts. I mean seriously.


So nice! It's good up to .005 but I actuall think its goo up to .0005! A little "5" shows up here and there after all the numbers when measuring stuff.


Got my Gentec small torch!


OMg it was like xmas opening this thing up. It's got fine tuning knobs for O2 and gas. Comes with like 5 tips numbering from 3 - 7. I know theres a #2 tip but after using the #3 tip I cant imagine using a #2. The flame would be so damn small.


Comes with 8' of hose.


The Gentec next to the MAPP torch.


This right here is the MAPP torch tip. I think its a #7 size tip. Which is the biggest tip the Gentec came with.


This is the #7 tip for the Gentec.


Side by side.


Now this is the smallest Gentec tip. Its a #3 tip.


This is the #3 tip in action. I have it maxed out. I usually use this tip with a lot less gas/O2. Because waving it around while polishing will blow out the flame when you push to much gas/O2 through such a small tip. The flame it mush smaller when you use less gas/O2 than what you see in the pics. But its still hot enough to do a smashing job at flame polishing.


Here I am destroying a piece of aluminum with the #7 tip. so cool.


Look at it glow man,... geez. Now this is a bit different than melting I think. When I destroyed this piece,... I dont think I had the flame as hot as it should of been to melt it. I think I had it just below what it should of been. It's still melted but its like it more or less destroyed the aluminum. From slowly heating it and then continuously heating it,... it like ruined the aluminum or something. This piece had an after glow where another pieces I flamed,... didn't. The piece that didn't melted a lot faster.


This is the piece that didnt have that after glow to it. From what I heard,... aluminum doesnt really get red hot. It does but not really. It's just melts right away. Thats what this piece did. It just looks melted. there the other piece looks weird. I dont know.


some pieces that fell off while melting it. the two on the left hit the floor and the one on the right almost set my table on fire.


Proof.


My new baby.


Time for some flame polishing. I put the 3# tip back on for the flame polishing. I also made this little handle thing I use to pick up and turn the acrylic. Now the acrylic doesnt really get hot at all when flame polishing! thats exactly what you want! Its perfect.


Ok heres the before.


Here's the after. This is actually stage one of the polishing process. I actually had to flipp them after they cooled to do it again. They came out great.


Nice.


This is what I got done before running out of O2. Melting the aluminum and farting around on video used up a lot of O2. No sanding here.


Ok,... back the the tube jig. I attached the aluminum arm things.


I am not liking this jig. It's not the way it's suppose to be. I have a better idea.


As you can see it's off. After you drill all 4 holes doing the same method shown here. If you were to drill a 5th hole,... it should align perfectly with the very first hole. The angle is off by a bit. maybe 43 or 44 degrees instead of 45. Im going to scrap this jig and make the other one.


Time to work on the drill press. I have to reverse it. I was going to initially wire two foot switches but thats going to be a pain in the arse. So Im going to wire one foot swtich and a center off switch too. Going to do both drill presses but im going to start with the smaller one first. I have to get this motor off.


I have to take this thing off.


I have to disconnect this swtich.


Done. This thing is heavy as hell! Cant imagine how heavy the other one is!


This is a capacitor start - induction run motor. It has two windings, the started winding and the running winding. When you flip the swtich, the running winding always has power which means the magnetic fields are always turning. When you flip the switch on the starter winding gets power but when the rotor reaches a certain speed the centrifugal switch turns it off. The starter winding is obviously only for starting the rotation of the rotor. The started winding is power by a capacitor. The started winding is what determines direction. Without it the rotor would not start turning on its own. It needs a push. This is because the running winding creates two magnetic fields moving evenly in opposite directions. Kind of like a game of "Tug of War". Each team perfectly equal in strength pulling on a rope. The start winding is an extra person plaes on only one side of the rope. The extra person enables the one team to pull the rop towards them. Get it? once the rotor starts moving it will become attached to the magnetic field moving in that direction. The other magnetic field wont be able to stop the rotation at that point. It does slow it down a tiny bit but not a lot.


This is the centrifugal swtich or part of it.


When the rotor is spinning fast enough it pulls outward pulling this black disc up towards the rotor.


When its not turning,... the disc moves away from the rotor and pushes down on the actual switch attached to the inside of the rear cover.


This is the rotor.


This is the stator. A bad pic by the way. The cam focused through the stator. DOH!


This is the starter winding attached the the wire from the capacitor. Starter winding from what read is usually only one wire and is usually of a thinner gauge too.


This is the running winding. It usually has two or more wires. The gauge is usually thicker too. Reason being because it's always powered. Wher ethe starter winding only has power momentarily.


Heres all three wires(one starter and two running) all connected the the negative.


Ok,... here's the deal. This is where the process of powering the start winding starts. The white wires is from teh on/off switch. The positive wire. Because the running winding always has power it connected right to this wire. The red wire goes the to the centrifugal switch.


Here's the red wire. Whenteh motor is off,... the centrifuge pushes down on this closing the circuit. Thw power from the res passes through,...


And makes it's way to this white wire that,....


Makes it way up into the capacitor compartment so that it can power the capacitor. From here,...


Another white wire comes down and is attached to the starter winding SO I need to switch this starter winding wire with,....


With the starter winding wire attached here. When I do that the rotor should change directions. I want to wire in a triple throw switch. Forward - Off - Reverse. when you want to switch directions you have to let the rotor come to a complete stop. If you dont the rotor will keep spinning in the same direction is was regardless of where the switch is, forward or reverse. Cool beans?!?!


I have to order some switches now. Peace. Oh I made another video. I'm just waiting for REVVER to approve it. I uploaded this video the other day and when I came home it was listed as an error. REVVER sucks.

[tribaloverkill]

I did it! I rewired both drill presses to run forward and in reverse and I only got electrocuted twice! Remember to unplug before you start touching stuff! Oh! And capacitors hold a charge a bit after you unplug them Ouch.

Aug-18-2008

Here's the small drill press all ready to go! I used a 4-way rocker switch. $12.


Switching wires. Your basically looking at 4 extra wires coming out of the motor. The capacitor + and - along with the starter winding + and -. Easy.


Before I get started,... this is a bad tutorial. I didnt take as many pics as I though I did. So bare with me here. First, disconnect your motor completely from all wires.


You might have to remove this spindle thing but in my case I dont have to. I had to for the first one but not this one.


Remove the motor and place on a table just like this one. The table is important.


This motor is a lot bigger than the other motor for my other drill press.


Remove the rods that hold the motor together by removing the rod nuts as shown in the pics.


Put all the nuts back on the rods so you dont lose them.


All except one. Your going to use this one to open the motor.


Your going to stick it back into one of the holes and your going to get the tip of the rod to just miss the rear hole as you see in this pic.


Then your going to stick something into the rear hole like a pencil or something. This will push the rod over away from the holes even more. It will keep the rod from entering the rear hole. Next your going to tap on the rod with a hammer until your see the rear cover start to seperate from the motor. You need to do this EVENLY! Do this for each whole a little bit at a time until the cover comes off.


Becareful when you do this because you might break the rear cover. This cover is very fragile or cheap. The smaller one I did before this was a lot stronger. Just becareful. If the rear cover does not want to come off, you can heat the motor shell up a bit with a propane torch. This will cause the motor shell to expand a bit making it let go of the rear cover some. Take your time.


When you get the cover off you should see something like this. This motor wired just a bit differently then the first one I did. The only difference is that the capacitor is before the centrifugal swtich as oppose to after the centrifugal switch like the last motor. what does that mean? Well, the centrifugal switch kills power to the starter winding once the motor has started and has reached a certain speed. Having the capacitor before the centrifugal switch means the power is being cutting FROM the capacitor to the starter winding. Which is ok because the starter winding is not getting power at that point BUT the capacitor is. The way I see it,.. if you not using it SHUT IT OFF! This is why I want to put the capacitor AFTER the centrifugal switch. The centrifugal switch will kill power the the capacitor which in turn will kill power to the started winding. The way you see it in the pic is not how I want it. I have to switch some wires around. To get the capacitor AFTER the switch I have to run a wire from wire #4 to the centrifugal switch. I need to remove wire #3 from teh centrifugal switch and from the one edn of the starter winding which is behind the pull ties and sleeving you see behind the cover. Wire #2 is fine where it is. Wire #1 is going to go to the starter winding now. Making this change will put the capacitor AFTER the centrifugal swtich. Now wire #1 really isnt going right to the one side of the starter winding, it's going to the 4-way switch. So you will need to run a wire from wire #1 to the outside of the motor so it can go to the 4-way switch.


In here you will find the one side of the starter winding. the side that gets power. You need to run a wire from this side of the starter winding to the outside of the motor. So thats two wires so far that will be going to the 4-way switch. The wire from the capacitor which I call "C+" and the one side of the starter winding that gets power, "SW+". Now i'll show you the last two wires that need to go to the 4-way swtich.


Behind these pull ties are the running winding wires that get power, they are attached to the white wire. You'll also find the running winding wires that are attached to the black negative wire. Lastly,... you will also find the other side of the starter winding. It will be attached to the black negative wire too. The 3rd and 4th wires that have to go outside the motor to the 4-way switch is the other side of the starter winding thats attached to the black negative wire and the black negative wire. This wire is "SW-" You need to attach another wire to the black negative wire so that it can go out to the 4-way switch. This wire is called "C-".


Here's the starter winding wire. It's getting power from this white wire. Most AC motors like this have only ONE starter winding wire. The starter winding is only power for a short time just to get the motor running. Once the motoro is running it loses power.


Here are the running winding wires. AC motors like this can have 2 or more running winding wires. Thelast motor I did only had 2 running winding wires. This motor because it's bigger has 4 running winding wires. The running winding wires is what keeps the motor running. The running winding wires always has power when the motor is on.


ALL of the windings are attached to the black negative wire. You need to find your starter winding wire and remove it from this black negative wire. Reason being because it's going to the 4-way switch.


I removed the starter winding wires from the positive and negative wires. I am goingto attach wires to these and I'm going to run these wires outside the motor to the 4-way swtich. These are teh "SW+" and "SW-" wires.


You can use a multimeter to check for continuity of the starter winding if your not sure you have the right ends.


You need to actually strip the wire bare at the ends because all of the winding wires have a nonconductive coating on them. Use a pair of pliers and grip and pull on the ends. It will strip the end bare. You wont be able to solder to these wires unless you do this. The solder wont stick.


Here im soldering two whites wires to the one side of the running winding. One white wire will go to the power cord. The other white wire is going to the centrifugal switch. Yes,... I can use my little Gentec torch to solder. Thats how small the flame is. LOL.


The wire labeled goign to centrifugal switch is going to be attached where #3 wire is attached in the next pic. #2 wire is staying where it is.


This black wire is attched to the #1 wire in the next pic. This is "C+" and its going to the 4-way switch.


This is "SW+" which is the positive side of the starter winding. It is going to the 4-way switch.


The black wire on the left is "SW-". It is going to the 4-way switch. The black wire on the right is "C-". It is also going to the 4-way switch. This "C-" wire is attached the the motors negative wire which is wire #5 in the next pic,...


so I have all my wires soldered and pull tied out of the way from the rotor. You should have 4 wires exiting the motor. "C+" which is basically the positive wire from the capacitor, "C-" which is the motors negative wire, "SW+" which is the positive wire from the starter winding, and "SW-" fromt eh starter winding. Positive negative,... it doesnt matter with the starter winding because all it is, is a long copper wire wound up. It has two ends. one goes to the positive and one goes the the negative. Doesnt matter.


This is the 4-way switch. Its a rocker switch. Nice. I think its a 110/220 volt 15amp switch which is common for this type of swtich. This is why I looked here first before looking at any other kind of swtich.


This is basically how it works. Flip it to one side and it does this,...


Flip it to the other and it does this. Get it? So perfect for what Im using it for. This was almost to easy! LOL.


So I just have to wire it up and test it. "C+" to "SW+" and "C-" to "SW-". Thats it. It works great!


So time to rig it up for good. Here are the switching wires from the motor. Gave them some extra length just in case.


Made a VERY quick I dont care what it looks like bracket for mounting the switch.


Soldered some wires to those that were coming from the motor. These new wires go to the switch. Make sure you have enough slack to slide the motor back and forth to remove the belts.


All done.


I hope this update helps you guys rewire your presses if your press needs reversing. This is a very sloppy tutorial. I though I took more pics of each step but I guess I didnt. I was to into my work I guess. I think you guys will be fine though. Its easy as hell. Just ask me if you guys need help. I will take some video of it working when I start tapping the end pieces I have. Also,... revver finally approved my last Gentec torch video so here it is:

[tribaloverkill]

Quick update! Have to run! I'm having lunch with a girl! A GIRL!!!!!!! OMG! WHAT DO I DO!!!! AHHHHHHHHHH!!! CAN"T BE LATE!!! HAVE TO SHOWER! Deodorant and dont forget to use body spray,... have to smell good. Brush my teeth. Have to scrape out the grease from under my nails,... any pimples on my face?!?! Have to drop down to do 50 pushups,... have to appear buff. OK OK,...I think im ready.

Aug-23-2008(bAR2745r)

I wrapped the leads of the 4-way switches on the drill presses. I used electrical tape. I did it in a way so the the end is caught between teh switch and the bracket so it doesnt come undone. Very clean looking. And safe.


New jig time! A very old peice of Lian-Li aluminum from Blackout.


Some drill time and this is what I got,...


You see the buldge? I could have gotten any closer to the other side without having gone completely through. Perfect.


Some scroll saw time and file time and this is what I got,... nice right? To bad this is not what I needed! DOH!


This is what I needed. LOL.


Hard to explain what this is going to be. Just keep watching.


Cool ehh?


Cool ehh?


You understanding now?


How about now?


And now,...?


This is it for now! I have off tonight. Im going to go back to the studio after lunch. I'm s@#$%^ myself right now. Have to bring some spare panties to change out the ones im wearing for when I s@#$ myself.

[tribaloverkill]

SWEET! I had a good and bad day at the studio. More bad than good but not thats bad. Check it out,...

Aug-24-2008 (bAR2745r)

Finishing up these discs I started making,... I cut a little groove in each. I tried using the drill press as a milling machine to make this goove but it end up butchering it so I just used a file.


The new base,...


The underside,... nice inset bolts.


These things are dead on,...


Done. As you can see the one has an extra pair of angled things. Thats because I installed the disc to the wrong side. LOL. so I had to add the extra pair so if I have to drill smaller tubes.