TribalOverkill's LiquiD EvolutioN

[tribaloverkill]

Can't quite decide.

Dec-30-2005

Should I do something like this to the mounting hardware? I think it would somewhat compliment the shields. BUT,... I am not sure. Either this or somehtin like it or,....


This. I mean not this not kind of like what I did for the blackout reservoir,... the support band with the arm. You know the design grooves and stuff. Picture that holding this reservoir down. So which do you think? Blackout style straight band like mounts or sure I add a little something extra to break the straight band like look?


Let me know.

[tribaloverkill]

Ok,... this is tiny. I'm working on it now. I am posting this because I am taking a little break to think about this before I go on any further.

Jan-01-2006

Here I am making little tabs for my mockup.


Mockup complete. This is the exact position of the tabs that will hold teh shields to the bands.


Here are the bands traced and ready to cut. I decided to go with the curved idea. I am goign to add the curve using additional shields. The tabs at the very ends of what you see here will be used to bolt those on.


I dont know what Im doing for those shields yet. I have an idea but still not sure. Anyways,... happy new year guys!!! OH,... it's Blackout's 1 year aniversary!!! Exactly one year ago,... I started her.

[tribaloverkill]

Ok,.. this is what I have been up too.

Jan-09-2006

Here are the first mounts I made. Very beautiful. They would have worked but when I was bending the tabs for one of them,... one of them broke off. So,... I had to scrap it.


Now,.... here the new brackets. Same thing except no tabs. Someone told me about thread-serts and rivet nuts. So for now on I will be using themn instead of bending tabs. Tabs use up to much time and material. I ordered the thread-serts and they should be here soon but,... I dont think that thread-serts are goign to be good for how I plan on using them for this. I have to do some testing. So far I think they will but I have to make sure its full proof. I'll explain in a minute. In this pic,... they are ready for wet sanding and polishing.


Polished. You see the 6 holes? Those are for the thread-serts. They, right now are only pilot holes. I will drill them wider when I get my thread-serts in.


Here is an ACE thread-sert. I got it from ACE Hardware. It has 8-32 threads which is to big. I want 6-32. This is why I am not using them. Plus these are friggin expensive!!! 8 for like 6 bucks. I got 100 for like 20+ bucks, 30 something shipped. Anyways,... heres the bottom. The very top of the thread-sert is pulled inside the bottom porting of the sert. When it get pulled inside it expands the lower portion making it impossible to yank out. They come in one piece. When you start cranking it with teh proper size bolt,... the top snaps off from the bottom as its being pulled together. SO,... when its set,... it's actaully two pieces. One within another. I will get detailed photos when I actually use them for the mounts. My fear is that when I bolt the shields to this side,... that if I yank hard enough the inside piece will come out. But I doubt that. I want to rulle that out by testing them.


This is the top of it. Technically,... you are suppose to use this side when bolting anything down. Im using the other side because Im using the body of it as a spacer,... plus, this side is fairly flush. This side is goign to go again the reservoir. There will be some sort of foam or some material that will go over this to prevent scratching. I am going to sand this down some so its smooth. I have to be careful not to sand to much because if I sand the head off it will come out.


The set height is about 3/16" which is pretty much what I am looking for. This is goign to work out very well. Will look better then the tabs.


So,... I am goign to start working on the lower shields now. Hopefully thet serts will be here soon. Peace.

[Xghost]

OMG. this is a dutch site. And a Dutch forum. English is not allowed here.

[tribaloverkill]

Update,... The reservoir is about 90% complete 10% more to go,...

Jan-11-2006

Heres the new thread-serts. They are smaller then the last. These have 6-32 threads and the OD is a bit smaller too. The head is also thinner


You can see here that the head is thinner.


Here are the brackets with the pilot holes drilled out for the thread-serts.


Here,... I am bending the mounts over a smaller diamter pipe. This particular aluminum is very soft. The reason I and bending over this pipe with a hammer is because with the grooves cut out, there are areas that are stronger then others. The weaker areas will bend first. So I am banding the stronger areas over this pipe. Remember,... aluminum will always spring back some after being bent so the radius of the bend is going to be larger then what you used to make the bend. So this pretty much fit right over the reservoir.


Here I am using a scrap piece of tube from one of the past attempts at the reservoir. I used it to perfect the shape of the brackets. Bangin on it,... this acrylic is pretty shock resistant.


One completed bend.


You see where my finger is,... this is a strong point because there more material here then by one of the gooves. You have to becareful with that when you bend.


Heres one of the brackets pretty much done, with the bending that is. I will show you how I did it with the next bracket.


Rock


Done. Just has to be cleaned up a bit.


See the rubber washer. It allows you to bend the portion of the bracket a bit easier to make it easier to slide the reservoir in as oppose to the aluminum being bolted directly to itself.


Ok,... this is the second one. Heres how I did it. I tape off the are of wher I am going to bend to prevent as much scratching as possible.


Measured 3/8" for the bottom hole there. I am like 1/16" off, I wish I had bent it with a an extra 1/16 - 1/8" more but oh well.


Put the piece flush againt the table and used a ruler with a razor and cut the tape on the line.


Peeled all the tape away after the cut. This is my bend line.


Vised it and bent.


Here I taped off what I just bent and marked it's next bend.


Bent. I have been using wood and a rubber hammer to keep from scrathcing up the aluminum.


Here I already bent the other side to match and I marked off the height of the those last bends. I am filing those down to size gettting ready for the last bend. Now,... I forgot to takea picture of how I got the last bend but what I did was I use a screw driver with a squared shaft. The width of the screw driver is pretty much what I need to so it worked out well. I vised the screw driver and bent the aluminum over it.


Last two bends made and I drilled a hole between the two so they can be bolted together.



Pretty much finished.


On the reservoir.


Here are the thread-serts. They are uncompressed.


Here they are set and ready to be used.


The shields fit perfectly to the mounts. As Planned


I ground down the bolts to fit flush.


Reservoir in place. Its the old reservoir. It's not down so I didnt want to scratch up the new one. You have to hold thing thing in your hands to really appreciate this thing. You have to slide the reservoir in and out to get a feel of how accurate this thing is. Its beautiful.


Almost done with this reservoir.

[tribaloverkill]

Update Well,... it's a mock-up update really. Just tell me what you think of it?

Jan-16-2006

[tribaloverkill]

Ok, an update. This reservoir is now 99% done. The last 1% iserely rebuffing and tweaking. Here are the pics,.... these are not final pics either.

Jan-21-2006

Ok,... heres the begining of the lower shields. I taped off the areas that I need for the lower shields. Can not cut the tape. absolutely not.


Cut to sized and ready for the design to be tranfered to the pieces.

I cut a curve out of a piece of cardboard so I can mimic the same curve several times throughout both pieces.


Design traced.


Jig sawed the design out.


Done and polished. Ready for bending.


Bent.


99% complete.



As I said all I have to do now is clean it up/ rebuff everything and tweak it it a bit so it's perfect.

[tribaloverkill]

It's DONE!!! xPO352r is complete. Not going to touch it anymore. I am 97% happy with it. Check it out.

Feb-07-2006

I remade the stands of the brackets. The originals were sloppy to me. Here I just got done bending the new stands.


Going to replace the old sloppy ones,...


I cut the old ones off.


Nice isn't it?


Bolted in place.


All done.


See the two small aluminum strips the reservoir is bolted to,... well those two pieces would normally be the case. Right now they are holding the reservoir inside the shields. You guyz see how the brackets work now?


The reservoir being held inside the shields.


The underside.


So whats next? Blackout.


I have been really busy guyz. Sorry for the delay. I sprained both my arms and I am just starting to feel better now. I have been doing tons of Ot at the hospital too. I have plans to go back to school very soon. This september. I got word that Nick is very sick. I just want to wish him the best and I hope he gets better soon. Not the same without him being around. I am on vacation for 2 weeks so I plan on getting alot of blackout done. Stay tuned.

[tribaloverkill]

Oorspronkelijk geplaatst door Stievius

Damn dude, that's some nice machinery you've got there. Pretty hard to imitate your work with a simple drill and a saw

But you can come close if you take your time


I understand this is a dutch forum and if enlgish isnt allowed, then english isn't allowed. Until the admins delete this thread i'm going to keep posting because theres some stuff I want to show you,...

[tribaloverkill]

Reservoir #2, POD254z! The Fountain. Yes,... I want a fountain reservoir. Here we go,...

May-14-2006

What the hell is this? If I was to ask BODDAKER,... he might know


A 6.5hp shop vac attached to the bottom of this "thing".


The shop vac. You probably know what I'm about to do,...


I'm going to vacuum form a dome for the top of my reservoir Now,.. here's the trick. The acrylic HAS to be heated EVENLY. If not it wont form a nice dome shape. Also,... It's best to leave the shop vac off until your acrylic reaches it's temperature. The hotter the acrylic the more it will strectch to form a nice dome. If you heat the acrylic to much you risk creating bubbles in the plastic and under vacuum you could over stretch forimg a hole. It's pretty cool actually, lol.


This is what you'll end up with. I dont reccommend heating while under vacuum. It's best you heat evenly to the temp you want first then apply vacuum. You will probably have to keep heating it some but the idea is to heat as little as possible while under vacuum. You risk unevenly applying heat which will warp your dome.


While appling vacuum the sides of the acrylic will pull upwards. It a good idea to try and keep the sides down as much as possible. After you reach a nice stretch, flatten the sides out like in this picture. Keep the vacuum on for a bit while cooling. Acrylic tends to warp or move around when hot. Leave it one to hold the shape. after a couple of minutes turn it off and remove your dome. Let it cool.


you should end up with something like this. Also, remember that the larger the area is that needs to be heated, the harder it will be to heat it evenly. This is why BODDAKER had a heating box to heat his large sheets. No way you could do that with a heating gun.


2.5"OD tube,...


Perfect fit. You want the vacuum hole to be just a tid bit larger then your target diameter. tid bit meaning a 1/32" - 1/16" larger. That it.


Other attempts. The acrlyic I am using is .118" thick.


This one is a larger diameter heated unevenly and to much. You can tell by the blow out or should I say in


Nice shape but wasnt heated enough.


This one is kind of warped a tiny bit and there's one bubble. LOL. As you can see I heated this one a bit more.


This one has a beautiful shape, nice dome. BUT,... was heated to much. There are heat bubbles. You need to keep the nozzle of the heat gun away from the acrylic. About 6" or so. To close and bubbles will form real quick. Plus if you keep your distance the btter your chances for heating it evenly.


Here,... I ground away all the side and I am now grinding it down to fit the diameter of the tube perfectly. I used tape to make a little handle. You have to grind this evenly too. Light pressure and keep the piece spinning. Dont sand in one spot to long.


You want a nice mating surface for strength. This is a bit smaller then the tube. The tube is 1/8", this is 3/32". Close.


I was lazy. I used the sander to sand off all the extra plastic arond the dome. Here the left overs.


Perfect.


Now because the dome's mating surface was smaller then the tubes,... I sander down the insides edge of the tube a bit to better match the dome. I didnt want any reall hard edges in there. I wont the fluid to flow smoothly.


Here's the shaft or "IN" port. Water gets pushed up through this and I think you know the rest.


You want to shaft to come close to the top but not to close.


Pretty sweet. Reminds me of an oil filter for a car


That was a long update. Damn.

[Blackcrown]

This stuff is freaking cool dude! Happy to see Spongebob again, those pets are hard to handle. I always put them in a cage so they won't be much bother when modding :P .

But it's still the Blackout style. Haven't read it all though, so I don't know it is your intention.

Oorspronkelijk geplaatst door Xghost

OMG. this is a dutch site. And a Dutch forum. English is not allowed here.

We'll let the main crew decide. Don't be so offence.. like.

[tribaloverkill]

Revision almost complete.

May-17-2006

One last part to make, the,... shaft. LOL.


One thing I didnt show you in the last update was how to bevel the end of the shaft, oh lordy. I'm feeling a bit weird here. Is it just me? LOL. Sander sliding thingy, 45 degree angle. Tape the ruler to the sliding thingy again for an extention, ha ha.


You see the little piece of aluminum? It prevents the shaft from sliding backwards. The rod. The,... god there has to be something else I can call this thing! The pipe,..... ARGH!!!!! The tuuuuube. Thats sounds bit better.



You figure out how much you want to grind off the tip and then you adjust the back stopper thingy.


Just run it across the sanding disc and spin.


Sanded and polished nicely.


Tube stands up nice and straight.


Gluing evrything together. Notice it's dark? I got intothe habit of gluing this stuff in the dark. I'm thinking that maybe the weld-on #4 reacts tothe light?!?!? LOL. Either that or the heat from the bulbs. I dont know. so far no real crazing. Oh well.


800grit.


Polished.



I forgot to get pictures. But just to let you know,..... it didnt work Lots of bubbles. The reason being,.... Well, it's hard to explain. What I'm going to do is draw whats happening. It will help to better explain. There's bubbles because of the fact that someething else is wrong, seriously wrong. The design is serisouyl flawed and I cnt believe I didnt think of it before all this. Can you can what the MAJOR problem is? I have another trick up my sleeve. I was talking this over with the friend the other night and we came up with something that might just work. The bubble ring isn't flawed. The reservoir didnt even use it. See if you can guess what the MAJOR problem is I'll get that drawing and explaination later.

[tribaloverkill]

Let try this,...

May-16-2006

New bottom,...


Bubble ring,...


Reservoir chamber,... check it out, here's a trick. I taped the sliding thingy on the table sander table and I taped an old ruler. I glued the ruler to the sliding thingy, tape to tape and wha la. Extention. So I can grind down shorter tubes evenly.


See


The reservoir chamber,... I sanded one side evenly and then tape it off like so. I used a 3/4" piece of acrylic which wasnt't really 3/4" at all. I stuck some extra tape to it to get it to 3/4". I glued a razor to the top of the 3/4" piece of acrylic slightly over hanging the edge. Press the reservoir ring against the blad and turn.


Peel away all the tape except for the 3/4" piece and you'll have a sending line. Take that piece to the sander and grind away all the clear. You'll have a perfect 3/4" ring when done